A couple of weeks ago I was reading a post from the Woks of Life, a lovely blog on Asian cooking. Their post was on a classic Chinese dish, Salted Fish Fried Rice. Salted Fish is a Cantonese ingredient made from white fish like croaker, salted and air-dried. This process concentrates the flavor of the fish, it’s salty, fish-forward, and well, kinda funky in a good way. Their twist was to substitute anchovies for the salted fish (hom yu, 鹹魚). My first thought was “Yum, I gotta try this, I think I have anchovies in my pantry”.
They also have a cookbook out and it’s gorgeous. If you need (who doesn’t) a cookbook that covers Chinese cuisine for the novice to seasoned cook, Woks of Life fits the bill. You can order it from Books, Inc. or in the Bay Area, from Omnivore Books which has signed copies.
Dad and Gung Gung 1940s
Tales of My Grandfather
As I read their post, memories of my grandfather bubbled to the surface. He lived in an SRO (single room only) in the heart of Chinatown above Sun Tai Sam Yuen Restaurant. It was convenient and comfortable for him. A line cook at Original Joe’s and at the Fairmont’s Tonga Room he walked to work from Chinatown. His neighbors, Cantonese men of similar age, had migrated to Gum San (San Francisco) looking for work.
Every Sunday I meet up with friends for coffee then we walk to our local farmer’s market to stock up for the week. Every year, like clockwork, when summer is upon us, the following conversation takes place between us…
While Walking Back From the Market…
She who shall not be named Person #1 So, who is going to buy the Granny Cart? I can’t lug any more melons, corn, and peaches. We need wheels. I feel like a Sherpa and my shoulder hurts.
She who shall not be named Person #2 Aren’t you the one on Medicare already? You should get it.
She who shall not be named Person #3 But you’re the one with the watermelon, half flat of strawberries, and 6 ears of corn!
She who shall not be named Person #1 Wait a minute, you’re the one with grandkids, you get it.
She who shall not be named Person #2 I’m the youngest, I’m not getting it.
Needless to say, due to vanity, we are still schlepping our haul in multiple tote bags, occasionally stopping for a breather. This Sunday may have been the breaking point, none of us could resist, so much amazing fruit right now. We loaded up on berries, peaches(Biscuit Berry Peach Cobbler), cantaloupes, (Melon, Prosciutto & Mozzarella with Basil Oil), and watermelons, (Watermelon and Tomato Salad). Somebody has to bite the bullet and get that cart!
Tomatoes Are Coming…Update They’re Here!
And I bought my first baskets of cherry tomatoes of the season today. One of my favorite dishes, especially with the 90-degree weather we are having, is Eric Kim’s Grape Tomato Quick Kimchi. I’m staying away from the stove as much as possible and this dish fits the bill. It’s the perfect way to enjoy those lovely tomatoes.
Side Dish Today…Lunch Tomorrow
Simple to make, the time-consuming part is salting and allowing the tomatoes to drain. Use any variety of cherry tomatoes. The dressing consists of vinegar, fish sauce, sugar, and Gochugaru. Red Boat or Three Crabs, are good choices for fish sauce. Either can be found in any Asian store. Gochugaru is Korean chili powder that can also be found in most Asian stores. Your best bet would be a Korean market or online. If you can’t find it feel free to substitute with chili flakes (1/4 tsp or to taste) or Aleppo pepper powder (1:1). Toasted sesame oil provides a nutty, sweet finish to the dressing.
Serve it as a salad or side dish, like Banchan, it goes well with any kind of meal. I make a big batch so I have extra for an easy lunch the next day. Just cook up some pasta, either ramen noodles or Angel Hair pasta, and toss it with the leftover tomatoes and sauce. The pasta warms the tomatoes and picks up the flavors of the dressing, it’s delicious.
With tomatoes coming into season now and the weather warming up, this easy-to-make dish is perfect.
Eric Kim's Quick Tomato Kimchi. Refreshing, easy to prepare banchan using fresh cherry tomatoes is the perfect summer dish
Course Appetizer
Cuisine Korean-American
Keyword Banchan, cherry tomatoes, Cold Noodles with Tomatoes, grape tomatoes
Prep Time 30 minutesminutes
Cook Time 5 minutesminutes
Ingredients
Tomatoes
1poundgrape tomatoes (or any ripe cherry tomato)about 2 to 3 cups, halved lengthwise
1teaspoonkosher salt
Banchan Dressing
2tablespoonswhite distilled vinegarsubstitute with rice vinegar
½teaspoonfinely grated garlic
1tablespoonplus 1 teaspoon sesame oilToasted sesame oil like Kadoya
1tablespoongochugarupowder of flakes
2teaspoonsfish sauce
1teaspoongranulated sugar
Garnish
Thinly sliced scallionschopped chives, or cilantro or flat-leaf parsley leaves for garnish (optional)
Instructions
In a medium bowl, toss the tomatoes with the salt, transfer to a colander, and let drain about 30 minutes. In the same bowl, add vinegar and garlic and set aside.
After 30 minutes, add the sesame oil, gochugaru, fish sauce and sugar to bowl with the vinegar and garlic and whisk to combine. Pat the tomatoes dry, then add the tomatoes to the dressing and toss until well coated.
Garnish with the optional herbs before serving. This is best eaten right away, but can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.
Make this for banchan for dinner and use any remaining as a pasta sauce the next day. It is delicious with somen noodles. Cook as directed. Add tomatoes to hot noods and mix. Serve immediately.
I have taken over tomato duties from the hubby who has given up on becoming an urban farmer. We just haven’t had any luck with turning our garden into a summer veggie paradise. My bounty from 5 tomato plants so far has been a grand total of 4 tiny red orbs 🤦🏻♀️
FORTUNATELY, we have a wonderful farmer’s market in town.
My haul from last week’s farmer’s market included a variety of cherry tomatoes including Bronze Torch Cherry Tomatoes (pictured on the right above) from Live Earth Farm in Watsonville. We have been buying Live Earth produce since my kids were toddlers and they’re in their twenties now! The Bronze Torch Cherry Tomatoes are simply AH-MAZING. Sweet, tomatoey, delicious.
Tomato Trifecta
I am a big fan of Eric Kim. He writes regularly for New York Times Cooking and just published a wonderful cookbook, Korean American. It is hands down one of my favorite books. His recipes are easy and delicious and his writing is even better. You can also find him on YouTube making many of his recipes, he’s funny, personable, and charming. I went to his book signing at Omnivore Books in SF, fun, I’m such a food groupie.
I love his Grape Tomato Quick Kimchi which I make all the time. Serve as Banchan (side dish-pictured on the right above) one day and as a sauce over noods the next day. It is downright delicious. As soon as I saw his Cold Noodle with Tomatoes recipe I jotted it down on my MAKE ASAP list. It is so easy and incredibly delicious. It should go on your list too.
Start with cherry tomatoes, slice them in half, and sprinkle with salt. Let the tomatoes sit in the bowl while you put together the rest of the dish. No need to use a strainer as the juices from the salted tomatoes become part of the broth. Mince garlic, get out the rice vinegar, soy sauce, Dijon mustard, and sesame oil, and toss it all in a bowl along with the tomatoes. Next, add cold-filtered or bottled water to the bowl (use water that tastes good). Add diced scallions, and slices of radishes (the little red ones) or cucumbers to the broth. Set the broth aside.
Here’s the Hard Part
How to cook your somen. DO NOT COOK YOUR SOMEN while you are getting the other components together. Make the broth and set it aside. Focus on the noods so you don’t overcook them. For somen (thin Japanese wheat noodles), start with plenty of unsalted water. Somen has salt in it. If you use too little water, the noods will absorb too much water because of the salinity. Watch them like a hawk, and stir them with chopsticks or tongs while cooking to separate the noodles, this takes 3-4 minutes TOPS. Remove from heat, rinse thoroughly under cold water and drain well.
Before serving, twirl noodles into a bundle and place them in a bowl. Add crushed ice to the tomatoes and pour it over your noodles. Garnish with additional scallions and sesame seeds. It’s so refreshing, the perfect summer meal. Carnivores, feel free to add shrimp or chicken or half of a hard-boiled egg. Serve asap on a hot summer day. Sooooooo good.
BONUS, Ottolenghi’s Charred Tomatoes and Cold Yogurt. Yes, my trifecta of tomato recipes. Tomatoes, roasted with thyme, cumin seeds, lemon, and garlic, served over yogurt or Labneh. It’s my go-to party appetizer, especially in the summer. It’s “lick the bowl clean” good. A showstopping, easy dish. Make it, you’ll thank me.
Refreshing, delicious, and easy to prepare, Eric Kim's Cold Noodles with Tomatoes
Course noodles, one bowl meal, pasta, Soup
Cuisine Asian, Asian-American, Korean
Keyword cherry tomatoes, Cold noodles, Cold Noodles with Tomatoes, soup
Prep Time 15 minutesminutes
Cook Time 5 minutesminutes
Ingredients
The Star
2pintsripe cherry tomatoeshalved
2teaspoonskosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
The Noods
12 to 14ouncessomyeonsomen, capellini or other thin wheat noodle
Soup and Seasonings
¼cuprice vinegar
2tablespoonssoy sauceKikkoman, Sempio 501 or 701 or LKK Premium Soy
2tablespoonsgranulated sugar
1large garlic clovefinely grated
½teaspoonDijon mustard
½teaspoontoasted sesame oil
2cupscold filtered wateror bottled water of your choice.
1tablespoontoasted sesame seeds
The Garnishes
2radishesthinly sliced, or cucumbers work in a pinch
2scallionsthinly sliced at an angle
2cupscrushed or cubed ice
Omnivore Options
cooked shrimp or shredded chicken
hard boiled eggs, but not too hard-boiled lol
Instructions
In a large bowl, toss together the tomatoes and salt. Let sit until juicy, about 10 minutes.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the noodles according to package instructions, drain and rinse under cold water. Set aside. See post for how to cook somen noodles.
Add the vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, garlic, mustard and sesame oil to the tomatoes, and toss with a spoon until well combined. Stir water into the tomatoes and sprinkle the surface of the broth with the sesame seeds, radishes and scallions.
Right before serving, add the ice to the broth. Divide the noodles among bowls, and ladle in the broth and any unmelted ice, making sure each serving gets a nice sprinkling of tomatoes, radishes, scallions and sesame seeds.
A Zinger of an Appetizer: Charred Tomatoes and Cold Yogurt
I have a couple of go-to appetizer dips that I use ALOT (a certain Artichoke Dip comes to mind). Every time I make one of them there is this nagging little voice in my brain whispering, “pssst…Deb, I know this is good but try something new, this is getting boring”. Well, I finally listened to that voice. I pulled out Ottolenghi’s newest book, Simple, and landed on his recipe for Charred Tomates and Cold Yogurt. It was a no-brainer, the dish is featured on the cover of the book.
I’m so glad I did.
Right up my alley, easy to make and DELICIOUS. The recipe calls for cherry tomatoes (hello all you tomato growers), Greek yogurt, fresh thyme, oregano, garlic, and lemon. Oops, and olive oil. Toss the tomatoes with the spices and oil, roast and then broil to char the tomatoes. Spoon charred, hot tomatoes on top of the cold yogurt and serve with pita wedges or baguette slices. HOW EASY IS THAT?
Run out to the store and get cherry tomatoes right now. If you are growing tomatoes, go check for ripe ones and pull them off the vine. I was blown away by how flavorful and simple this dish is. The spices enhance the tomatoes and the lemon adds a nice citrusy zing. The contrast of the hot tomatoes and the cold yogurt adds yet another note. Serve with toasted baguette slices or pita wedges.
Luckily I have a little herb box right outside my kitchen, I picked a couple of stems of oregano and thyme for the dish, slivered some garlic, zested a lemon (yippee, I have a lemon tree too) and sprinkled on the cumin seeds. While the tomatoes were roasting, I pulled out the carton of Labneh I had picked up at the International Bazaar and seasoned it with salt and lemon peel. Labneh is the Middle Eastern version of thick yogurt. You can use this or a Greek full-fat yogurt, both will work. I plopped it into a good size shallow bowl, swirled a groove in the center to hold the tomatoes and then placed the bowl in the fridge to keep the yogurt cold while the tomatoes were roasting.
A delicious dip from Ottolenghi! Serve with pita wedges or crostini.
Course Appetizer
Cuisine Mediterranean
Keyword appetizer, cherry tomatoes, greek yogurt
Prep Time 15 minutesminutes
Cook Time 30 minutesminutes
Servings 8servings
Ingredients
12 ¼oz/350g cherry tomatoes
3tbspolive oil
¾tspcumin seeds
½tsplight brown sugar
3garlic clovesthinly sliced
3thyme sprigs
6oregano sprigs: 3 sprigs left whole and the rest stemmedto serve
1lemon: finely shave the skin of ½ to get 3 stripsthen finely grate the other ½ to get 1 tsp zest
Flaked sea salt and black pepper
1 2∕3 cups/350g extra-thick Greek-style yogurt or Labnehfridge-cold
½tspother crushed red pepper flakes
pita wedges or baguette slices
Instructions
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Place the tomatoes in a mixing bowl with the olive oil, cumin, sugar, garlic, thyme, oregano sprigs, lemon strips, ½ teaspoon of flaked salt and a good grind of pepper. Mix to combine, then transfer to a baking sheet just large enough—about 6 x 8 inches/15 x 20 centimeters— to fit all the tomatoes together snugly.
Place the sheet about 2 inches/5 centimeters beneath the broiler and roast for 20 minutes, until the tomatoes are beginning to blister and the liquid is bubbling. Turn the oven to the broil setting and broil for 6 to 8 minutes, until the tomatoes start to blacken on top.
While the tomatoes are roasting, combine the yogurt with the grated lemon zest and ¼ tsp of flaked salt. Keep in the fridge until ready to serve.
Once the tomatoes are ready, spread the chilled yogurt on a platter (or in a wide, shallow bowl, creating a dip in it with the back of a spoon. Spoon the hot tomatoes on top, along with their juices, lemon strips, garlic, and herbs, and finish with the oregano leaves and chile flakes. Serve at once.
