

About this time every year, my friend & co-worker, Trang, comes to work with bags of homegrown persimmons. I am not ashamed to admit I am Johnny on the spot when she is doling them out. I adore persimmons. The thought has crossed my mind that I should plant my own persimmon tree but I think I will just depend on the generosity of friends that have persimmon trees. (HINT HINT)
How to enjoy persimmons. Eaten out of hand, diced and tossed in salads, and baked in bread, cookies, and puddings. How about stirred into a risotto for a sweet counterpunch to the cheese and rice? Or dried, a wonderful way to enjoy them throughout the year.
I have been especially waiting for this persimmon season. Way back at the beginning of this year from HELL, we celebrated our birthdays with dinner at State Bird Provisions in The City. (Dining in a restaurant-remember that?). State Bird adopted the Chinese tea house concept, little plates of deliciousness brought out on trays for you to pick and choose from, just like dim sum. Their signature fried quail, dumplings, risotto, house ribs…plate after plate of tasty tidbits that dazzled us.
The kicker for me was a beautiful dish consisting of bite-size pieces of crisp, sweet persimmons bathed in a dressing of sesame, Kinako powder, and ginger finished with a sprinkling of toasted black sesame seeds and flaky salt. Simple and absolutely delish, I made a mental note to try this at home. I found the recipe in my copy of the State Bird Provisions Cookbook. The dish is incredibly easy to make. I spent more time getting the ingredients than putting the dish together. The cookbook runs the gamut from this simple, elegant dish to complex dishes better left to enjoy at their restaurant. I think of it as a coffee table cookbook, beautiful photos, an interesting read.
There are two kinds of persimmons, Hachiya and Fuyu. They are NOT interchangeable. Hachiya is an oblong, acorn-shaped fruit and pretty astringent. They cannot be eaten until they are super soft and very ripe. If eaten before they are soft, they will make your mouth pucker. I use Hachiyas for baking (soft gushy fruit is not my thing). Fuyu’s are flat, round, more tomato shape. They are non-astringent and can be eaten while they are still firm. For this salad, select ripe, firm fruit.
The recipe calls for grapeseed oil but you could use canola oil instead. We bought Kinako Powder at H-Mart but it can be found in most Asian stores. Made of soybean, it has a nutty flavor, kind of like roasted peanuts. If you have munched on manju or mochi covered with a fine light brown powder that’s Kinako. Toasted sesame oil and black sesame seeds can also be found in Asian markets.
Life is on hold as we await the results of the 2020 presidential election. I swore I wasn’t going to agonize over the process leading to the final result. My plan was to ignore CNN, Twitter, WAPO, NYT…I decided to watch Hamilton for the umpteenth time, followed by my favorite K-drama. As they say…
A quick sneak peek at Twitter and I was hooked. It has been an agonizingly slow crawl to the finish as the Biden/Harris ticket chips away at the vote count in the battleground states. There I was tabbing back and forth between my K-drama and Twitter. At 2am I had to stop the madness, I resorted to my favorite stress-buster activity, COOKING followed by my second favorite stress reliever-EATING.
At that time of the night, I needed something delicious, and comforting. I had been eyeing a recipe in NYTcooking for a chocolate pudding made with oat milk. Many of my friends are dairy intolerant or vegan so I am always on the lookout for desserts that fit the bill. The fact that this pudding was quick and easy made this a no-brainer for my sleep-deprived, anxiety-riddled brain.
This pudding is so ridiculously easy and so incredibly delicious bookmark this post now. You will thank me. I used Planet Oat Milk but the recipe states you can use soy or almond, I’m sticking with oat milk. I used Dutch-processed cocoa which gives the pudding its intense dark color. You can use natural cocoa which will give you a lighter-colored pudding, either is fine. Whisk the dry ingredients together, cocoa, sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Slowly add the oat milk and then cook it over medium heat, STIRRING constantly so it doesn’t scorch and stays lump-free and smooth. I used TJ’s Dark Chocolate Pound Plus Bar which resulted in a rich, intense chocolate flavor. Experiment with different chocolates to change the sweetness and chocolate intensity.
Topped off the pudding with cocoa nib crumble from Manresa and I was in business. Yummy. I imagine an infinite variety of toppings would be lovely like softly Whipped Coconut Cream, whimsical sprinkles, flaked coconut, cookie crumbs, or fresh berries.
My little bowl of chocolate pudding did the trick, calmed my nerves, and gave me the courage to…GO TO BED!
Our weekly foray to the Farmer’s Market had me restocking my week’s worth of fruits and veggies。 I was looking for inspiration for a showstopper dessert to make for an outside, mask-on, socially-distance birthday celebration that evening. My farmers market/crew bud, Mary, chimed in with “my go-to dessert is David Lebovitz’s Apple Frangipane Galette. I’ve made it a zillion times and it always gets raves”. Search over, an apple galette would be perfect.
I stopped at Live Earth Farm’s stand for apples. Not to brag or anything, ok, I am bragging. I successfully identified all their apple varieties. No small feat…Fuji, Gala, Pink Lady, Pippens and Jonagolds. As Sir Issac Newton might have said…
Apples in hand, I headed home to make David Lebovitz’s Apple Frangipane Galette. I have just the right amount of almond paste left in the fridge from the Almond Plum Snack Cake. That’s a sign, right?
The galette starts with a pretty classic shortcrust. I do a deep dive into making crusts in a food processor with Claudia Fleming’s recipe for her Apple Crumb Tart with Bacon Toffee Sauce. The key point, do not over-process the dough. The crust is flaky, tender, and buttery. The layer of frangipane elevates this tart to another level. Don’t bother cleaning out your food processor after making the dough, just pop it back on the base and toss in the ingredients for the frangipane. I used Amaretto in place of the rum and added vanilla extract and a dash of salt, just to round out the flavor.
Roll the dough on parchment paper, and transfer the parchment to a baking sheet, just pick up the whole dang thing and plop it onto your sheet-easy. Spread the frangipane on the dough, 2 inches from edge.
Top with apples. Sprinkle with sugar. I am on a raw or turbinado sugar kick so I opted for raw sugar. Fold the dough over the apples creating pleasts that overlap.
Arrange the apples in concentric circles or just pile them up, it’s supposed to be rustic.
Brush edge with melted butter and sprinkle sugar on the crust. Drizzle the rest of the melted butter on the apples.
Serve the tart with honey or toffee sauce (extra from the last apple tart-worked like a charm!)
This galette is definitely going in my WOW factor dessert rotation!
The Bake Sale Returns to Its Political Roots from Food & Wine magazine and a YouTube video of Paul Rudd “Ant Man” handing out cookies in a Brooklyn voting line (wow, wish I lived in Brooklyn) reminded me of how food and politics go hand in hand. I decided I needed to sweeten my “Are you with me?” let’s save democracy pleas. A good place to start was the recipes in the Food & Wine article. I started with the Toffee Apricot Oatmeal Cookies which garnered more than a few enthusiastic votes and followed it with the Almond Plum Snack Cake by Miro Uskokovic, the pastry chef at Gramercy Tavern.
This cake is guaranteed to convince anyone to side with you. The use of cake flour and AP flour results in a fine crumb cake that holds up well (like for a bake sale) while the sour cream and butter add richness and tenderness. The little chunks of almond paste provide a surprise hit of flavor and texture and the plums add moisture and a sweet-tart yumminess. Finally, almonds and sugar sprinkled on top add sparkle and crunch. It’s the whole package and is scrumptious.
The cake is easy to make but a couple of hints may be helpful. The recipe calls for 8 ounces of almond paste, half is incorporated into the batter while the other half is crumbled on top just before baking. Don’t use all of it in the batter. I used granulated sugar in the batter but replaced the remaining 2 tablespoons with raw sugar called for on top of the cake. This added both sparkle and extra crunch. Almond paste can be found in the baking section of most supermarkets, don’t confuse it with marzipan which is much sweeter and used for fondant and candy.
The cake comes together quickly with the use of a food processor. Start by combining the flours in a large mixing bowl and setting it aside. Place butter, almond paste, granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, and lemon zest in a food processor bowl. Process mixture until smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, followed by the sour cream. Process until completely blended around 30-45 seconds, scrape the sides of the bowl once or twice. Meanwhile, slice plums and toss with lemon juice. Let stand for 5 minutes.
Fold butter-egg mixture into the flour mixture in the large bowl until completely combined. Pour batter into prepared baking pan. Top with remaining crumbled almond paste and sliced plums.
I cut the recipe in half and baked it in a 9 inch round pan, you could also use an 8×8 square pan. You will need to tweak your baking times. Start checking the cake at 40 minutes.
Finish with the sliced almonds and sugar and bake.
Posted on one of my favorite blogs, Ipso Fatto, are a couple of sweets she tried from Food & Wine’s article, The Bake Sale Returns to Its Political Roots. In the current climate, this is right up my alley, political activism through food. A win-win. Her photos and reviews of goodies from the article had me running to my kitchen to get busy and bake.
First up were these fabulous cookies from State Bird Provision in San Francisco. I guarantee they will be a hit at any bake sale or socially distanced gathering. The cookies have a crispy edge, are slightly chewy in the middle, and are a flavor and texture party in your mouth. The apricots provide tartness to balance out the sweetness of the milk chocolate and toffee. The toffee not only adds to the buttery flavor but a wonderful crunch. So good. It’s been a while since a cookie has really wowed me. It was worth the wait.
One of my favorite farmers market stops is Sunblest Orchards. Their beautiful plums and peaches are now distant summer memories, but in their place are jeweled tone dried fruits and a variety of delicious preserves and sauces. I picked up dried apricots, peaches, and their Apricot Habanero Ketchup, so yummy it has replaced my regular ketchup at home. This past weekend they also had persimmons, fresh and dried-yum. Autumn definitely has an upside. Their apricots were perfect in these cookies.
Initially, I was happy that this recipe only makes half a batch of cookies. But they disappeared so fast I wished I had doubled it!
I didn’t have toffee bits but I did have SKOR bars so I chopped up the bars and used a smidge less milk chocolate in the cookies, NBD. A stash of milk chocolate chips was in the pantry so taking the path of least resistance, I subbed them for chopping chocolate. A good trade-off. The dough can be baked immediately but I like to chill the dough. The flavors have a chance to develop (especially the butter flavor) if the dough rests awhile and the cookies tend not to spread as much. Personal preference. I baked the cookies for about 16 minutes (chilled dough) rotating them in the middle of the baking time. They will brown pretty quickly so start checking at 13 minutes.
I really enjoyed these cookies and intend to make them again soon. Hope you’ll try them too. Next…from the same article, a luscious Almond Plum Cake before plums are done for the season.
Jamie is in Minneapolis right now, she sent a quick pic of herself bundled up in her down jacket, gloves, wooly hat with a single caption, 26.
Yep, I am a wussy Californian and not a very nice one, I replied with a laughing emoji in shorts.
I mark the change in seasons, not by dragging out a winter wardrobe but by the offerings at my local Farmers Market. My favorite Fall fruit has finally arrived APPLES! Apples are like that best friend after a breakup. The summer romance with peaches and berries is over but apples are here to comfort you, pick you up, and help you forget them.
Like a kid in a candy store, I went from basket to basket picking up Mutsuis, Pippens, Jonagolds, and Fujis. I love using a combination of apples in pies and tart for both flavor and texture. Recently, Apple Crumb Crostata by Claudia Fleming, pastry chef extraordinaire at Gramercy Tavern once upon a time and author of the fabulous book, The Last Course, popped up on my NYT feed. Everything I have made from her book has been delicious so when I spied the crostata recipe, it was a no-brainer. The homemade apple pie I usually bake to signal Fall’s arrival would have to wait.
The moving parts to this recipe, pastry crust, apples, crumb topping, and Bacon Toffee Sauce that sends this over the top.
I had a tough time rolling the dough out to 14 inches. It would have been pretty thin. I ended it up a diameter of 12.5 inches at best. Which means after folding the edges over my crostata was barely 8 inches. You might be able to roll it to 13 inches. I used approximately 5 apples for a scant 6 cups of apples, plenty of apples for this size crust. I took the advice of others on NYT cooking and halved the amount of crumb topping and the bacon toffee sauce. I still have plenty of sauce left even though the tart is long gone. The sauce is delish over ice cream or fruit.
The crust is made in a food processor which though speedy, requires due diligence to not overprocess the dough. Over-processing leads to a tough crust. The pulse button on your processor is your best friend. Throw the flour, sugar, and salt into the food processor bowl and pulse a couple of times to blend. Add the butter and pulse just until you have an oatmeal-like mixture with some pea-sized pieces of butter left. Add ICE-COLD water through the chute while hitting the pulse button to combine. Pulse just until the mixture looks like it is going to clump and come together and STOP or you will over-process the dough. Pour the dough out onto a wax paper or plastic wrap, and smoosh it together into a ball. Flatten into a disc, wrap it and toss it in the fridge to chill and rest.
Just pinch and fold over. My fold-over was less than 4 inches, more like 2.5-3 inches. Here is the link to the NYT recipe and video with Claudia Fleming and Mark Bittman.
What to do with the bacon I fried for the Toffee Sauce? Baco-bits on the crostata! Ok, it might have been overkill.
I served the crostata with BOTH the yummy, decadent Bacon Toffee Sauce and vanilla ice cream, cuz’…
Go Big or Go Home
In these tenuous times, I find myself making comfort food-homey dishes that surround your soul like a warm blanket. One of my family’s all-time favorites is a long, slow-simmered ragu’ spooned over a bowl of pasta. This usually requires a little forethought, prepping the ingredients, followed by hours of simmering on the stove. Yes, it is so worth it but…
Well, whaddya know, I can make a rich, luxurious, delicious ragu’ in a fraction of the time with an Instant Pot. I adapted a recipe I found on Chunky Chef and badabing-badaboom, a meat sauce that would win the approval of the Old Stoves in North Beach. Yay, I don’t have to start the sauce in the wee hours of the morning.
A ragu’ is essentially a meat sauce, this version is best described as a Ragu Alla Bolognese since it includes tomatoes. Purists probably would omit the seasonings and require only meat and sofrito (onion, celery and carrot trinity) for the sauce. I like the flavor boosters. You can add a bay leaf too if you like. DON’T ASK ME WHY. I googled in vain for a definitive description of the flavor a bay leaf adds, you’ll just have to trust me. Just remember to remove it at the end, along with the thyme sprigs.
The Instant Pot isn’t the only time saver. Prep for the onions, carrots, and celery means pulling out your food processor. This makes quick work of mincing the veggies. Really, who wants to stand there chopping veggies into itty bitty pieces for a sauce. Not me. Yep, dust off that food processor and put it to work. I also use it to puree the tomatoes. Don’t wash it out after the veggies, just run the tomatoes by pulsing a couple of times and add.
Saute’ the meats and the soffritto making sure to scrape the bottom of the instant pot A LOT. Twofold purpose: One-Those little brown bits are flavor bombs so you want to keep them. Two-If left on the bottom of the pot, they will trigger the scorch-safety feature on the pot and turn OFF. Ugh. Make SCRAPE your mantra any time you saute’ in the Instant Pot.
Other than that, it’s pretty straightforward. The sauce needs only 20 minutes (well, with pressure up time count on 30-35 minutes). In about an hour you will be at the table saucing your pasta, passing the Parmesan, and enjoying a nice bottle of Chianti (no fava beans please). Nom, nom, nom.
After adding the cream and basil you will have the voluptuous, unctuous sauce. Yes, I had to spell check both words. Perfect on a bowl of pappardelle or tagliatelle or plate of ravioli. Just dreaming of the pastabilities.
On a recent jaunt into the City, I headed to my favorite Italian Deli in the Marina, Lucca, to grab a meatball sammie for lunch. I also stocked up on their housemade ravioli and gnocchi from their freezer. I came away with mushroom gnocchi and veal ravioli that were PERFECT with this ragu’. The sauce and pasta freeze beautifully so a quick dinner is always at hand.
Lucca has been a favorite stop for a long, long time. As a kid, I would get a sammie and chips before walking down to Hunt’s for an Icee and donut. Those were the days.
All smiles digging into my bowl of mushroom gnocchi topped with amazingly quick to make Ragu’.
Yes, fall is upon us. Amazing how a year can go so quickly and yet feel interminable. Jamie came home yesterday from work and pronounced “We need to make something sweet today” to which I replied, “Sounds good to me but NO PUMPKIN”. Pumpkin lattes, desserts, all things pumpkin are popping up everywhere, its way too early if you ask me. Luckily Jamie did not have pumpkin on the brain either.
Our favorite fall fruit is undoubtedly APPLES. As the fall season comes into swing, I dust off the peeler and pie pans knowing that any day now Wes will say, “Are there apples at the farmers market yet? Is it PIE time?” For me, I will invariably think about making apple crisp, homey, delicious and a little easier than making apple pie.
But, none of the usuals made the cut yesterday. Jamie had spied a recipe on NYTcooking for baked Apple Cider Donuts. I was all in. Not a west coast thing, apple cider donuts are a tradition in the northeast and marks the start of the fall harvest season. The donuts are tasty and easy to make providing you have a donut pan (duh, of course, I do), and are a little easier on the waistline than fried donuts. They are tender, with a nice spiciness from the cinnamon in the batter and cinnamon-sugar topping. If you aren’t a gadget freak like yours truly, these can be made in muffin tins. Jamie added diced apples bits to the batter that made them even better, a BOSS tweak.
These are delicious, perfect with a cup of coffee or tea on a brisk autumn day or a warm fall evening, or ANYTIME.